03 Jun DO NOT FEAR – IT CAN BE CORRECTED
In the world of makeup, color correcting really ties back to the fundamentals of art. It requires an understanding of colors and how the color wheel operates, which is why beginners tend to shy away from experimenting with this technique. However, I’m here to tell you that there’s nothing to fret – color correcting is easy to master and can yield amazing results, especially for those with intense skin discolorations.
You may ask: “why is there a need to color correct when there’s concealer anyway?” It is because the sole purpose of correctors is to neutralize unwanted colors that concealer alone may not cover. So if you have problematic skin, I suggest you practice this makeup trick to see just how much of an impact it can make on the overall appearance of your makeup.
Whenever I teach my makeup classes, I make it a point to explain to my students that makeup will only mask colors but not texture on the skin. Meaning if you have a pimple, you will be able to conceal the redness but not the protrusion (aka don’t walk around with a cake face because everyone will still see that bump in the middle of your forehead). Overloading makeup in a problematic area may further emphasize it and make it appear more obvious. Remember that the less makeup you use, the more natural it will look – so work in small increments and gradually build up until you reach the coverage you desire without going overboard.
You will stumble across numerous shades of corrector and it is your job to figure out what exactly it is you need, or whether you need it at all. In order to do this, look straight into the mirror after applying your foundation and concealer then ask yourself, “are there still unwanted colors peeking through?” If the answer is yes, then it means that you should incorporate correctors into your makeup routine. Secondly, you need be educated on what shade of color corrector is necessary to combat each skin problem. The rule of thumb is that green counteracts red, purple counteracts yellow, orange/peach counteracts blue, and yellow counteracts purple. To put things into perspective, I’ve categorized each color corrector shade and which skin discolorations to use it for.
GREEN – a pimple, acne, rosacea, windburn, eczema, broken blood vessels or sunburn
PURPLE – dull skin, sallowness
ORANGE (for deep skin tones) – dark under eye circles, darkness around mouth area, dark scars and birth marks
PEACH (for fair skin tones) – dark under eye circles, dark scars
YELLOW – bruises, dark under eye circles with purple tinge, dark patches
Now that we’ve gone over the basics, I’ll take you through the two application processes I use – for widespread skin conditions such as rosacea and sallowness, I like to mix a little bit of color corrector in with face primer and apply it all over the face with my fingers or with a stippling brush before proceeding with foundation. For minor skin conditions, I apply foundation beforehand and continue to lay corrector on the problem area. Strategically apply the corrector using a concealer brush and blend it out with a damp beauty blender sponge before layering concealer over it. Be sure to set it with powder to prevent your makeup from smearing off and voila! You have a flawless complexion.
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